The Balanced One. Stefan Gögele

Stefan grew up on a farm; farming is in his blood. When he was young, he also helped out on his parents’ farm – it was the best work he could think of. And that hasn't changed at all. But now he helps out on his wife Katharina’s farm instead of the one belonging to his parents. Katharina’s father is one of the organic pioneers in the region. Today, they can proudly look back at 25 years of organic farming.

Six-and-a-half hectares – that’s what Stefan and his father-in-law farm together. In addition, they farm three-and-a-half hectares for other producers. Some of their orchards are not flat and level. Instead, they are on a steep slope. There, Stefan relies on the Guyot system, which is often used in vineyards. In this system, the main shoot is shunted to the side and the side branches are trained to grow upwards on tensioned wire cables to create a homogeneous surface. This way, the trees have a small footprint and can be cultivated to grow only two metres high. Neither vehicles nor ladders are needed for their care: they can be pruned, thinned and plucked directly from the ground.

Alongside Natyra®, they grow Royal Gala, Braeburn, Story® Inored and a few other varieties like this. Royal Gala used to be the main variety, but recently they have converted to newer, innovative varieties. Nevertheless, Royal Gala remains Stefan’s favourite variety. But when it comes to apple cultivation and flavour, he also swears by the variety Natyra®. He says he has a knack for cultivating it. When it comes to cultivation, it is a difficult apple as it does not like natural aids like sulphur and copper. Conversely, it is an easy apple because it is very hardy and therefore does not require many treatments.

Organic farmers do not rely on a cure for every problem, instead they count on their experience, exchange information with other farmers and are attuned to nature, the plants and the appropriate natural antagonists. They also monitor their plants closely, as they can detect many possible problems early on and intervene in time.

But Stefan is not only an organic farmer. He is also an apple ambassador and for two years, has been a trained apple sommelier. In this role, he sees himself as a messenger and educator. One who presents apples from South Tyrol and gives them a place at centre stage. Flavour, aroma, firmness – the criteria used for wine also apply to apples. And Stefan also does this on the farm: in his opinion, it perfectly balances out farming. Balance out, as he can interact with people, be convivial and talkative – be Stefan. Very different from how he is with his trees.

Stefan grasps a Natyra® apple, holds it in his hand, inspects it and turns it around. He determines its appearance, colour and visual properties. Then he cuts it open, sniffs it and determines the various aromas that have an effect on him. The last thing he does is bite into it, then describes its firmness and flavour, its balance between sweet and sour, and its intensity in interplay. Green, fruity, tropical. Crunchy firmness, crisp and juicy. And a sweetly sour flavour.

Stefan then animatedly tells us about food pairing. This is all about which variety goes (or doesn't go) with which other foods. There are major differences here, as flavour and aromas can be combined better in some cases and worse in others. For example, the sweetness of a piece of chocolate is perfect when paired with a sour Granny Smith and the sweet, juicy Fuji goes well with South Tyrolean speck.

Another topic also makes Stefan’s eyes glow: he is a passionate musician. For almost 25 years, he has played in the band in Obermais and in the Bohemian band as well. His instrument of choice has always been the trumpet.

Yes, that’s Stefan. He puts all of his passion into everything he does. And he does it well, without letting anything hold him back. “Some things that you just have to try out to find out if they are good,“ he said. He’s right about that.